Inner forestay
Verfasst: Freitag 8. Juli 2011, 17:22
Hi Torleiv:
There’re at least a couple of ways to go about installing an inner forestay. If you want the inner forestay to be well clear of—and run parallel to—the main forestay you will have to find the strongest point along the fore-aft axis of the foredeck and then determine the position of the mast attachment. This method will most likely involve installing running backstays. If you go along this route, the ideal location of the deck attachment on the Ballad would be right above the anchor locker bulkhead. This will allow you to run a chain plate to the bulkhead and have a really solid structure. BUT, it also means that you’d have to remove the bow cleat and move it fore or aft (or install side cleats) and, more importantly, get rid of the flimsy bulkhead and laminate in place one made of 18-20mm plywood. I followed a different path which was pre-determined by a mast attachment that I had installed when I’d taken the mast down several years ago. This attachment was high enough up the mast so that no running backstays were required. In order for the inner forestay to run parallel to the main forestay, the deck attachment for the former had to be about 35cm aft of the latter. The stainless-steel plate below deck runs from side to side but isn’t through-bolted to the toe rail. It was loosely based on a similar attachment I’d seen on a Jeanneau on the internet. A year or so later, I welded two tangs on the plate that would allow me to run a rigging screw to a strong point on the inside of the bow. I’m pretty sure it’s strong enough, although I haven’t used it in real anger—just up to force 6. Another thing you’d have to decide is what device you’d use for tightening the forestay. I’ve made a wheel adjuster from a rigging screw inserted into an industrial wheel. A pelican hook is attached to one end and the forestay eye to the other. When tightening, you’d have to hold the upper part steady to prevent it from turning, otherwise you’d also be twisting the wire. Once tight, then you insert a pair of cotter pins to secure it. (It works but it’s a bit of a hassle, so if you can spare the money, buy a proper adjuster made by Wichard, Nemo, etc.) When not in use, the whole contraption is stored below deck, while the forestay is secured with a small block and tackle somewhere on the toe rail. All in all, I’m happy that I’ve installed an inner forestay. It allows you to run two genoas wing-on-wing plus use it for a working jib or storm jib. I’ve attached several photos which will hopefully be helpful. Unfortunately, I can't upload a word document with a drawing which will help you determine the location of the forestay mast attachment if you don’t want to install running backstays. Send an e-mail to nicholas@thesyndicate.gr and I'll forward it to you.
Nicholas
Moments of Clarity #334
There’re at least a couple of ways to go about installing an inner forestay. If you want the inner forestay to be well clear of—and run parallel to—the main forestay you will have to find the strongest point along the fore-aft axis of the foredeck and then determine the position of the mast attachment. This method will most likely involve installing running backstays. If you go along this route, the ideal location of the deck attachment on the Ballad would be right above the anchor locker bulkhead. This will allow you to run a chain plate to the bulkhead and have a really solid structure. BUT, it also means that you’d have to remove the bow cleat and move it fore or aft (or install side cleats) and, more importantly, get rid of the flimsy bulkhead and laminate in place one made of 18-20mm plywood. I followed a different path which was pre-determined by a mast attachment that I had installed when I’d taken the mast down several years ago. This attachment was high enough up the mast so that no running backstays were required. In order for the inner forestay to run parallel to the main forestay, the deck attachment for the former had to be about 35cm aft of the latter. The stainless-steel plate below deck runs from side to side but isn’t through-bolted to the toe rail. It was loosely based on a similar attachment I’d seen on a Jeanneau on the internet. A year or so later, I welded two tangs on the plate that would allow me to run a rigging screw to a strong point on the inside of the bow. I’m pretty sure it’s strong enough, although I haven’t used it in real anger—just up to force 6. Another thing you’d have to decide is what device you’d use for tightening the forestay. I’ve made a wheel adjuster from a rigging screw inserted into an industrial wheel. A pelican hook is attached to one end and the forestay eye to the other. When tightening, you’d have to hold the upper part steady to prevent it from turning, otherwise you’d also be twisting the wire. Once tight, then you insert a pair of cotter pins to secure it. (It works but it’s a bit of a hassle, so if you can spare the money, buy a proper adjuster made by Wichard, Nemo, etc.) When not in use, the whole contraption is stored below deck, while the forestay is secured with a small block and tackle somewhere on the toe rail. All in all, I’m happy that I’ve installed an inner forestay. It allows you to run two genoas wing-on-wing plus use it for a working jib or storm jib. I’ve attached several photos which will hopefully be helpful. Unfortunately, I can't upload a word document with a drawing which will help you determine the location of the forestay mast attachment if you don’t want to install running backstays. Send an e-mail to nicholas@thesyndicate.gr and I'll forward it to you.
Nicholas
Moments of Clarity #334